Instructions

Here are some step by step instructions for learning how to use your Hyrel 3D Printer.

Before You Get Started

ALL printer models:

1. Plugging in Motor Cables

Unboxing and Initial Setup: 30M Models

PDF: Quick Start Instructions Plugging in Motor Cables System 30M Unboxing System 30M Initial Setup System 30M Tablet Setup

Unboxing and Initial Setup: ESR Models

PDF: Quick Start Instructions Plugging in Motor Cables ESR Unboxing and Initial Setup

Unboxing and Initial Setup: Hydra Models

Plugging in Motor Cables Hydra 21 Model Unboxing Hydra 21 Bed Leveling Older videos below still generally apply: Hydra Model Startup Hydra Home Calibration Details Hydra Model Controls Overview

Unboxing and Initial Setup: Engine HR (High Resolution)

Plugging in Motor Cables Unboxing and Set Up of the EHR How the Engine HR is Set Up, Part 1 How the Engine HR is Set Up, Part 2 Setting the Z-Zero on the EHR, older

GCODE to establish sensor-based home in Z and in X/Y: G28 Z0 ; home Z G28 X0 Y0 ; home X/Y GCODE to insert BEFORE first move, assuming 28.2 as your calculated Z-Zero above absolute Zero: M660 H2 Z28.2 ; set tool height for tool two (Z offset) GCODE to insert ON first move, Before: G1 Z0.275 F360 ; move to next layer (0) After: G1 Z0.275 F360 H2 ; move to next layer (0) and invoke head Z offset for this tool

Please complete the steps above for your model of printer before printing.

BASIC Printing: One STL, One Head

First Training Session

Overview, Tramming, Printing with Reservoirs

PDF: First Training Session Session 1A: Hardware and Software Overview Video Session 1B: Communications and Tramming Video Session 1C: Setting Z-Zero and Emulsifiable Print Video

Additional Emulsifiable Videos

1. EMO Series Printing Tips
2. Overview of Reservoir-based Print Heads:
   1. Overview of the EMO Heads
   2. Overview of the SDSHeads
   3. Overview of the VOL Heads
   4. Overview of the KR2 Heads
   5. Overview of the SMH-2 Head
3. Loading Reservoir-based Print Heads:
   1. Loading the EMO-25
   2. More Loading the EMO-25
   3. Loading the VCD Head
   4. Loading the SDS Head
   5. Loading the SDS Head with RTV
   6. Loading and Printing with the EMO-25

Second Training Session

CAD Modeling, Positioning, and Printing with Filaments

PDF: Second Training Session Session 2A: Simple CAD Modeling in FreeCAD Video Session 2B: Healing an STL in MeshLab Video Session 2C: Positioning, Scaling, and Rotating your STL Video Session 2D: Editing Slic3r Recipes Video Session 2E: Slicing your STL and Viewing your GCODE Video Session 2F: Loading and Printing with Filaments Video

Additional Filament Videos

1. General Filament Head Instructions:
   1. Filament Head Printing Tips
   2. Post Processing with a Heat Gun
   3. Loading and Unloading Filament in Filament Heads
2. MK1-250 and FH2-260 Extruders for Standard Filaments:
   1. Overview
   2. Loading and Printing
3. MK2-250 Extruder for Flexible Filaments:
   1. Overview
   2. Loading and Printing
4. MK1-450 and FH2-450 Extruders for High-Temperature Filaments:
   1. Overview
   2. Loading and Printing

Additional Basic Printing Instructions

1. PDF: BASIC Printing Instructions
2. HotHead/HotBed 103 Controller Board LEDs Explained
3. Tramming your Bed: Systems and Engines, 2015 and later
4. Tramming your Bed: Earlier Systems and Engines

Please become skilled at BASIC Printing before moving to INTERMEDIATE Printing.

INTERMEDIATE Printing: One STL, Multiple Heads

1. PDF: Intermediate Printing Instructions
2. Session 3A - Setting Two Heads to Z-Zero
   1. Session 3A - Alternate Version
3. Session 3B - Calibrating the Offset Between Two Heads
   1. PhoneBuddy App for using your smartphone to calibrate offests
   2. GCODE: Calibration Target
4. Session 3C - Slicing and Printing with Second Head Support
5. Session 3D - Clone or Parallel Printing

Please become skilled at INTERMEDIATE Printing before moving to ADVANCED Printing.

ADVANCED Printing: Multiple STLs, Multiple Heads

1. Session 4 - Advanced Slicing and Printing: Multiple STLs with Multiple Heads

Please refer to the videos below for instructions on Troubleshooting, Maintaining, and Tuning your Printer.

Other Accessory Overviews

• Overview of the LA5-808 and LA6-450 Lasers

Troubleshooting, Maintaining, and Tuning

List of ALL Videos

How do I change nozzles or clean nozzles?

Carefully:

1. Heat to the printing temperature of the material loaded.
2. Move the manual lever to the left, retracting material until it is free of the advancement gear, then remove by hand.
3. Turn off heat to the head and remove it from the yoke. *Nozzle should be HOT when this step is done; use caution.
4. With a 1/4" driver or wrench, remove the nozzle.
5. Inspect the nozzle cavity for any stray material; if found, remove with tweezers, solvent, air pressure or other means.
6. The old nozzle can be cleaned with a fine drill bit the same size as (or slightly smaller than) the nozzle diameter; some users also soak the nozzle in an appropriate solvent to remove all material.
7. With a 1/4" driver or wrench, attach the new nozzle.
8. Use normal procedure for heating and loading filament.

How do I change nozzle sizes?

There are two places where we consider nozzle size:

1. On the head, we use the number you have for nozzle diameter to make our flow calculations. See Flow Rate for details about how we determine how fast to spin the motor so that you get the proper volume per second of deposition. This image is for printing with a 14# (fourteen gauge, or 1.6mm ID) luer needle:

2. In the recipe, we use the extrusion width numbers to determine how far apart to place each bead of material. We expect your extrusion width to be 10% wider than your nozzle diameter (to allow for a nice sandbag-shaped cross section). This image is for printing with a 14# (fourteen gauge, or 1.6mm ID) luer needle:

This applies to everything we print, from PLA to Porcelain to PEEK.

Please note that we do NOT use any other variable relating to nozzle diameter. Not Bridge Flow Ratio. Not Nozzle Diameter. Not Extrusion Multiplier. All of these variables affect the E values in your gcode. Which we then ignore.

How do I load an Extruder onto the Printer

As with all Hyrel heads, the following process should be followed:

1. Start with a level bed and Repetrel running and connected to the printer.
2. Load the gibs on the Head into the gib slots on the Yoke from above and slide the head down into place; the last mm of travel should be done gently, ensuring that the electrical connector seats properly (firmly and completely) into the receiving connector.
3. Ensure the LEDs on the print head are flashing - this means the Head is communicating with the Motion Controller.
4. Tighten the thumbscrew in the rear, to prevent the head from moving relative to the Yoke.
5. If the Head doesn't show up in Repetrel, press and release the RESET button on the front of the printer.
6. Once the Head is shown in repetrel, proceed to setting your Z-Zero position.

See also: Loading Print Heads into your Hyrel 3D Printer

How do I load material into a Filament Head?

Filament heads all ship with a remaining piece of filament from the last test print (ABS, 240C for low-temp heads, and PEEK, 420C for high-temp heads. We recommend leaving a few cm of filament above the head when changing heads.

Unloading:

1. With the head properly seated and the emergency stop OUT, warm the head to the service temperature of the presently loaded material.
2. If presently loaded to a spool, press down on the blue pneumatic fitting and release the guide tubing; then cut the filament a few cm above the head.
3. Press the manual feed lever (at the top left of the head's 103 circuit board) to the left, retracting the filament. Retract until the filament comes free of the motor shaft, then remove.

Loading:

1. Straighten (if needed) the last few cm of the new filament, which should be routed through the guide tubing. Insert it down through the pneumatic fitting, into the PTFE guide tube, until it comes in contact with the motor shafts.
2. Press the manual feed lever to the right, advancing the filament two to three cm.
3. In repetrel, click the motor on at 500 (pulses per second) until the new filament advances to the melting zone and forces the old filament out. Advance about 30cm of filament, checking for smooth sides and uniform color.
4. Remove excess filament with tweezers. Seat the guide tubing. You are ready to go.

See also: How to Load Filament into a Hyrel 3D Print Head

General

1. Establishing Connectivity between PC and Printer
2. Updating Slic3r Settings
3. Replacing the 103 HotHead Controller
4. Updating the 103 HotHead / HotBed Controllers
5. Updating the 407 Motion Controller
6. Assembling the new PEEK Fan Nozzle on the MK1-250 and MK2-250

Hydra Models

Configuration

1. Converting from Printer to CO2 Laser

Adjustments

1. Hydra Home Calibration Details
2. Adjusting X and Y Belt Tension
3. Adjusting Z Belt Tension
4. Adjusting Linear Bearings
5. Draining Laser Coolant

System 30M and Engine (SR) Models

Adjustments

1. Adjusting the X-Arm
2. Tightening the X Belt
3. Adjusting the Y-Arm
4. Tightening the Y Belt
5. Adjusting the Table Arm Block
6. Tramming the heated build platform and setting Z-Zero

Replacements

1. Replacing the Power Supply
2. Replacing the Heated Build Platform
3. Replacing the (old) 4A fuses (1206 package) on the Yoke
4. Replacing the Print Head PCB
5. Replacing the Main I/O (Spine) Board
6. Replacing the Tablet Interface Board
7. Running from an External PC (start at 6:24)
8. Replacing the LED Strips
9. Replacing the Front Switch Panel

YouTube Directories

1. The Hyrel YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT-48K-0Y4xoTvbJCjyDFXA/videos
2. Karl Gifford's YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/karl0gifford/videos?sort=dd&shelf_id=0&view=0